I figured that something extraordinary was afoot in the waterfront North Carolina town of New Bern when the highway sign on the way in flashed a smiley face with the text, "Yes, the bridge is open!"
North Carolina's second-oldest city may be celebrating its 300th anniversary this year, but the biggest cause for excitement among its 28,000 residents is arguably the new Alfred A. Cunningham Bridge, which just happened to open the day I arrived.
The replacement drawbridge, nearly three years in the making, feeds highway traffic over the confluence of the Neuse and Trent rivers and directly into red-bricked historic downtown New Bern, finally erasing the need for lengthy detours through not the most attractive section of town.
"There's been a big traffic jam all day of cars wanting to drive over it," said innkeeper Kim Wynn when I checked into the spacious turret room at the Howard House Bed & Breakfast, just two blocks from the bridge. "We've waited a long time for this. It's such a pretty way to enter town."
Whichever route you take, once you're downtown you can park the car and put on your walking shoes, as most of what you'll want to see sits within a 15-block spread. If you stick to a tight schedule, as I did, you can take in the highlights in one day and spend another at the beach. (The closest, Atlantic Beach, is a 45-minute drive to the southeast.)
By the time you've covered two blocks you'll be wondering, "What's with all those bears?" The animal's likeness is on the ubiquitous city seal, most often seen flying from lamppost banners, and, on the ground, in the form of 44 decorated fiberglass "Bear Town Bears." The symbol comes from New Bern's founder, a nobleman from Switzerland who named the city after his home town of Bern. The name derives from the German for "bear," and you'll find your fill of them here.
I decided to conquer downtown first, stop to refuel, then tackle New Bern's shining star: Tryon Palace, which was the home of royal governor William Tryon in 1770 and served as the capital of North Carolina until Raleigh supplanted it in 1794.
I would be remiss if I didn't mention New Bern's other royalty: romance writer Nicholas Sparks, best known for the tear-jerker "The Notebook." For his fans, the tourism folks have wisely designed a self-guided walking tour past sites mentioned in Sparks's novels. Be warned that the sugar may stick to your feet on this "Walk to Remember."
New Bern's shopping area is a friendly, inviting place, except for the "we have no public restrooms" signs in the front of many businesses. (Town leaders, maybe it's time to install some?)
Before I could even step inside Mitchell Hardware, I overheard manager Greg Smith telling customers how he had tooted a whistle and rung a cowbell during his inaugural walk over the half-mile bridge the day before.
His family's landmark store was founded as a livery stable in 1898 and morphed into a general hardware store, which it remains today. It's now housed in a 1912 building featuring original leaded glass windows and a pressed-tin ceiling.
I popped into several sizable antiques shops, the stylish home-design shop Confluence, and my favorite, Carolina Creations, featuring national and North Carolina artisan
On Saturdays, New Bern's year-round farmers market hums with mostly locals, giving it a warm community feel. The downtown market is heavy on baked goods, country crafts and New Bern-logo items, making it a good spot for souvenir seekers.
Downtown's most-visited store has to be the Birthplace of Pepsi, run by regional distributor Minges Bottling Group. It was in his pharmacy here that Caleb Bradham invented "Brad's Drink" in 1898, later patenting it as Pepsi-Cola. The small shop contains memorabilia, trinkets for sale, an old-fashioned soda fountain and a guest book filled with addresses from around the world.
"What are you serving?" I asked the woman behind the soda counter.
"Pepsi, Diet Pepsi, Mountain Dew and Diet Mountain Dew," she answered.
That keeps it simple.
My choice for lunch was made easy by the warm early-spring day: the rooftop deck at Captain Ratty's Seafood & Steakhouse. Although the location doesn't offer a full water view (visit the Hilton hotel's waterfront deck for that), you can see slivers of the rivers and the lively streetscape below.
History has sat at the head of the table in New Bern for decades and will continue to lord it from there this year with a tricentennial calendar brimming with exhibits, war reenactments and celebrations. Several events pay homage to the city's past and still-strong African American population. (The city also publishes a self-guided African American heritage tour.)
Not coincidentally, 2010 is also the year the 60,000-square-foot North Carolina History Education Center is scheduled to open, in mid-August. The museum will give visitors a futuristic look at eastern North Carolina's past by using a host of high-tech multimedia devices. Its attractive, contemporary brick and glass building is beautifully situated on six waterfront acres across the street from Tryon Palace, which funds and operates the new museum.
As for the former governor's mansion, only a small part of the original 1770 building remains. But that didn't stop New Bern from re-creating an 18th-century world around it by reconstructing the handsome Georgian-style estate in the 1950s. Because Tryon was fond of London designers, the interior is decorated in mostly authentic 1700s British furnishings.
You can tour several buildings and the splendid garden-filled grounds on your own, but the palace itself can be visited only on a guided tour. I've been inside twice and feel compelled to report that both tours were unremarkable, with rote historical recitations, little eye contact and zero liveliness. Let's hope that the new education center's creative energy rubs off on Tryon.
The palace is a great starting point for a tour of New Bern's dozens of historic homes. Although most of the earlier buildings represent Georgian and Federal architecture, you'll find a little bit of everything, and many are in tiptop shape. You can pick up a map for a self-guided historic-homes walking tour at New Bern's visitor center, or you can take a New Bern Tours trolley ride, which emphasizes architecture.
Thanks to New Bern's vast waterfront, sunsets can be a thing to behold. The best spots to watch them are from Captain Ratty's rooftop, on a park bench behind the New Bern Riverfront Convention Center and from the top of the bridge. You know the one.
Sunday, May 2, 2010: Diane Daniel is a freelance writer based in Durham, N.C. She can be reached at diane@bydianedaniel.com.